Pioneer Bakery cheese Danish

Doughy instead of flakey. A balance of sweet and sour. A folded pastry with two problems that keep it from the title fight.

The Pioneer Bakery of Puyallup, Washington, is one of those little places you’d miss if you blinked. That would be your loss, because they’ve got a few tricks up their sleeves that make me want to go back. The Generalissimo and I aren’t ones to turn up our noses at local bakeries; we tend to prefer them, actually. There’s a place in D.C. that makes these—

“Just get on with it!”

“Yes, sir.” The Generalissimo hasn’t had his daily dose of caffeine, or lithium, or whatever the hell it is that—

“The Danish!”

“Right.” The bread is just that: bread. Most Danishes go for a flakey crust that peels away when provoked. This one didn’t. It was a little off-putting at first, but the flavor was dead on. Its glaring problem was with moisture content. When eaten as a whole, the moisture was less of an issue, but on its own, the bread crumbled around the edges.

Then came the frosting. Buttery goodness laced with sugar. I’ve tasted few Danish frostings that were its equal.

The filling had the right balance of tart and sweet, with a consistency that reminded me of homemade whipped cream. “Hey, did I ever tell you that a friend of mine in high school nicknamed me Whip


“It was because of—”

“We do not need to hear the sordid escapades from your misspent youth, young Thurman! On with the review!”

“Right.” Like he’s never gone on some tangent about what he and the Generalissima did the previous night in the back of her Citroën DS convertible.

“You asked me how my evening went!”

Anyway, the cheese Danish’s filling was almost perfect, but there just wasn’t enough of it. And for $2.45, more wouldn’t be out of line.

Overall, it was fantastic, which made up for some of its shortfalls. Not the best Danish out there, but definitely on my list of places to stop when I’m in the area.


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